Style Directives: What Are You Wearing?

When my mom and her friends visited China, they filled every possible space of their suitcases with Nike tennis shoes, Ralph Lauren polo shirts, and Coach bags. These American brand-name goods were doled out to their younger relatives and cousins, who valued the clothes not for fashion or quality but for the big logos splashed across the fabric. Even though this generation of Chinese teens are slowly discovering their own style, they won’t refuse this sartorial link to the West.

Yet, there remain differences in the way that Chinese and American teenagers dress, although their style directive often comes from the same type of sources: television, film, magazines. In the end, though, it’s culture that leads to different ideas about what and what not to wear.

I noticed how teenage girls present themselves. In the U.S., girls try out makeup, pull their shirts down and hike their skirts up – the goal is to look older. In China, where innocence and childish cuteness is widely prized, girls wear clothing with bows, ruffles, or characters like Hello Kitty in order to appear younger. Even though the Chinese like to borrow from Western fashion, they systematically reject the perceived openness of Western sexual attitudes. Do the girls want the Ralph Lauren sweater with a large polo player embroidered across the chest? Oh, yes. Do they want the mini-sundress with the low-cut back? Absolutely not.

A few examples of the extreme – Japanese “kawaii” (cute) style

Another observation I had was the extent of celebrity worship and idol culture in China compared to the U.S. From my experience in the States, when celebrities, athletes, actors, or musicians release a clothing line or a new fragrance, a very small fraction of the most passionately devoted fans would anticipate and purchase the new items. (Except for H&M and Target designer collaborations – that’s a different story altogether!) For the vast majority, the difference between a pair of jeans designed by Justin Timberlake (from his co-founded William Rast line) and a pair of Levis is probably insignificant.

Britney and Timberlake – because these pictures are still hilarious

My Chinese cousins see it differently. When my family was planning to make a trip back, one of my college-aged cousins specifically requested that we bring back Michael Jordan t-shirts, with the logo or his name stated explicitly on the shirt, and with the silhouette of the basketball player leaping into the air, ready to dunk. As well, the sneakers had to be Air Jordans: not Puma, Reebok, or Adidas, but Nike Air Jordans. My cousin and his friends were fascinated by Jordan’s celebrity status, and wanted to wear his special line to express their idolatry to everyone.

Last, but probably the biggest difference, is the attitude towards counterfeit products. For most Americans, the thought of buying a fake Louis Vuitton handbag is upsetting. Although there are many websites and private sellers offering “silk” scarves, inspired-by-Hermès leather purses, or out-and-out duplicates of the latest goods still on store shelves, people tend not to buy them. However, it’s common to encounter Chinese street vendors offering “genuine” name-brand bags for just a fraction of the cost – perhaps a few hundred yuan instead of hundred of thousands – and just as common to see Chinese youths engaged in transactions.

For the younger generation, it’s not quality they seek, but the images of the luxurious lifestyle evoked by the brands. For them, fashion is a way to express what they want to be to their peers and colleagues, instead of an indication of who they actually are.

“Oh, you know, just hanging with my director dad in an Argentinean field at dusk…“

Of course, many of these trends have shifted in recent years. Celebrities and political figures like Peng Liyun, China’s First Lady, have shown up to prominent events wearing Chinese designers; the rise of tuhao will change purchasing trends. While the change is slow, and perhaps uncertain, it’s one that may bring Chinese designers to the world stage, and may mean emptier suitcases when we travel to China.

Folk Singer Turned First Lady: What It Means for China’s First Lady to Be on The Glamorous “Best-Dressed” List

When Xi Jinping assumed the role of President of China in March of 2013, it was amidst a cloud of uncertainty. The Chinese Communist Party was only just recovering from a public scandal involving a high-ranking member of the party, and there were a great deal of questions regarding how Xi planned to implement his goal of curbing corruption within the Party. On Xi’s first trip abroad however, accompanied by his wife, Peng Liyuan, foreign journalists were suddenly struck with another question: What is China’s First Lady wearing?

Peng travels long-haul in style

Dressed in a long, dark, double-breasted trench coat, light blue scarf, black heels, and black leather handbag, her hair perfectly coiffed and in a bun, Peng stepped off the plane and into the limelight. The American press called her the next Michelle Obama, and her sartorial choices whipped fashionistas into a frenzy as they tried to guess the clothing label. The discovery that she’d chosen a domestic Chinese brand, Exception de Mixmind, as opposed to one of the major European fashion houses was hailed as a turning point for Chinese fashion. Vanity Fair included her in their Best-Dressed List of 2013, and domestic sales for Mixmind soared.

First Ladies Angélica Rivera de Peña (Mexico) and Peng Liyuan (China) navigate the stairs in high-heel pumps at a state dinner in Mexico City

From a Western perspective, the concept of a fashionable First Lady is nothing new, with notable examples being Jackie O., Carla Bruni, and, of course, Michelle Obama. But in China, where the First Lady has tended to stay out of the limelight, Peng’s position as a media darling has enormous potential for a government that was somewhat lacking in terms of charismatic international public figures. While no stranger to the role of the public figure – Peng previously garnered popularity within China as a folk singer – her position as the President’s wife has subjected her to a completely different level of exposure.

Peng, performing in Beijing in 2012

(Photo: Imaginechina, via Agence France-Presse — Getty Images via NYT)

Peng’s coming out as China’s first publicly glamorous first lady comes at an interesting juncture in Chinese politics, especially given her husband’s position. Xi has been vocal in denouncing perceived excesses within the Party, and has vowed to crack down on these as a way of reducing corruption and streamlining the bureaucracy by launching a frugality campaign.

In this context, her choice of a homegrown label serves very much to bolster her husband’s position, and sets her apart from the wives of other politicians. In a time fraught with tension brought about by the rapidly increasing gap between rich and poor, as well as a flurry of political scandals involving bribery and corruption, brands like Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior are as much symbols of luxury and status as they are of corruption and excess.

Rivaling Kate Middleton and Michelle Obama

By imbuing the image that has become popularized in the West of what constitutes a “First Lady”, Peng makes herself more amenable to a global audience, which is especially crucial given her current status as a media darling, and her role as the President’s wife and as a face in contemporary Chinese politics. In redefining the roles of fashion within the Communist Party, and particularly in Peng’s choice to wear local Chinese brands, the question of style goes beyond the realm of individualized taste, and takes on a political dimension.

In adapting Western styles to Chinese brands within the current context, it may be possible for figures like Peng to redefine China’s image much like its fashion: as an accepted and legitimate part of the international community that still exists as its own distinctive entity.

The Hanbok as Haute Couture

When I was a little kid, one of my favorite outfits was my hanbok, or traditional Korean clothing. I was enamored with its vibrant colors, asymmetrical bow, and flowing skirt, so on more than a few occasions, I wore it to school and to dinner parties, undeterred by the stares people often gave me.

The author wearing hanbok as a toddler

Their confusion stemmed not only from the contrast between traditional Korean clothing and the typical American outfit of T-shirts and jeans but also from their unfamiliarity with hanboks. Many times, I got asked if I was wearing a cheongsam or a kimono.

We’ve all seen cheongsams or kimonos reinvented and popularized (and sadly, in some cases, exploited) within the fashion world, but there has been relatively little seen of the hanbok. In recent years, however, the hanbok has been entering the runway, presumably due to the growing cultural and economic influence that South Korea has on the international community. This once old-fashioned outfit has been re-defined, transitioning from a relic of the past into a chic item suitable for any catwalk or boutique.

Below are some examples of haute couture hanboks:

Fashion shows featuring modern hanboks, like this one in 2009, occur regularly in Korea.

Although hanbok dresses are what have grown popular in the fashion scene, hanboks worn by men have also undergone reinvention, as seen in the Hanbok Fashion Show in Seoul in October 2011.

Lee Young-hee, a famous hanbok designer, has gained both domestic and international recognition for her unique approaches to traditional Korean dress, holding haute couture fashion shows like this one in Paris in July 2010.

You can see elements of Western and Korean clothing styles combined in these elegant hanbok dresses worn by actress Han Hyo-joo for the September 2012 edition of Vogue Korea.

The hanbok has also appeared in collections by non-Korean fashion designers.

Carolina Herrera based her Spring ready-to-wear 2011 collection on the hanbok and displayed these stunning beauties during New York Fashion Week.

During his time at Dior, John Galliano designed a hanbok-inspired dress for the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2011 collection.

Miuccia Prada (above) and Giorgio Armani (below)

Renowned designers Miuccia Prada and Giorgio Armani are avid fans of Lee Young-hee’s work and have visited her shop in Korea.

In 2011, Swarovski Elements partnered with Korean designers to incorporate Swarovski crystals into their hanbok designs.

Sandra Oh (of Grey’s Anatomy) wore hanboks made by LA-based designer Kim MeHee (whose hanboks have also been worn by Jessica Alba and Nicky Hilton) for the Spring 2008 cover of NUVO Magazine.

If I were to wear any of the dresses pictured above, I know I’d get stares for all the right reasons: for wearing a hanbok every bit as glamorous and stylish as the little black dress.